Bicchieri SI, bicchieri NO, bicchieri DOVE

by Patrizia Maritan

Bicchieri preziosi, bicchieri di carta, bicchieri di cristallo…

ll bicchiere è uno degli oggetti più difficili da scegliere e da disporre sulla tavola.

Possiamo sceglierlo del materiale che più ci piace: dal vetro alla plastica, dalla ceramica al ferro, dall’argento all’oro, a seconda del gusto, dell’esigenza e dell’epoca in cui è stato prodotto.

Può soddisfare qualsiasi preferenza di colore e, dal trasparente al nero opaco, c’è tutta la scala cromatica a nostra disposizione. Ed è previsto un bicchiere specifico per ogni tipo di bevanda.

memento-01

Quindi: quanti disporne in tavola e come?Partiamo con la considerazione che ogni epoca ha i suoi usi e costumi. Oggi sarebbe impensabile non bere acqua durante i pranzi, perciò il bicchiere per l’acqua è necessario.

Non è sempre stato così: Henry de Toulouse-Lautrec, famoso pittore della fine Ottocento e appassionato frequentatore di locali della Belle Epoque Parigina, consigliava vivamente di non mettere il bicchiere dell’acqua in tavola ritenendo che solo il vino favorisse la sensibilità delle papille gustative mentre l’acqua la rovinasse, come raccontato nel “Manuale del Sommelier” dell’AIS 1).

Lautrec
Toulouse Lautrec – “A la mie” 1891 – Boston Museum of Fine Arts

A conferma dell’idea di Lautrec, ho trovato delle illustrazioni per una cena importante di una tavola servita alla russa dove, nel dettaglio del coperto, sono presenti 5 bicchieri: 4 per vini specifici, madera, borgogna, bordeaux e champagne e uno da usare indifferentemente per un vino ordinario o per l’acqua. Come dire: meglio che beviate solo vino.

Bisogna anche pensare che, a quel tempo, chi poteva immaginare una tavola con numerose pietanze e arredi sontuosi erano la ricca borghesia e, prima, l’aristocrazia. Di certo il numero e la tipologia di bicchieri  da mettere in tavola non erano il primo pensiero della maggior parte della popolazione.

Torniamo ai nostri giorni.

Quindi: qual è l’etichetta da seguire per non sentirci inadeguati nel disporli a tavola? Le mode cambiano, cambiano i gusti, cambiano le esigenze.  E tutto molto, troppo in fretta.

Sempre per orientarmi nella giungla di informazioni a disposizione, sono andata a cercare qualche indicazione nel Manuale del Sommelier dell’AIS 1, in un’edizione di qualche tempo fa che ho trovato in casa e che riporto testualmente:

“Per destreggiarsi tra i numerosi tipi di bicchieri si possono seguire i criteri funzionali che permettono di apprezzare il vino al meglio:

  • flûte per il vino spumante; se il vino è dolce e aromatico essa può essere sostituita da un bicchiere a forma di coppa;
  • bicchiere slanciato per i vini bianchi sapidi, vini rossi giovani e novelli e i classici vini rossi mediamente invecchiati;
  • bicchiere arrotondato ed allungato per mettere in evidenza il bouquet dei vini bianchi frizzanti;
  • bicchiere leggermente svasato per i vini rosati;
  • bicchiere grande e panciuto per i grandi vini rossi, austeri e molto invecchiati.

Questi bicchieri possono essere utilizzati per ogni esigenza. Nei pranzi impegnativi se ne può ridurre il numero, lasciando solo quelli previsti per il menù.”

Sotto riportato un particolare di un pranzo ufficiale in Campidoglio – dove è previsto il Cerimoniale – e sono presenti 4 bicchieri a coperto.

foto_t4f

“I bicchieri possono essere limitati a 2 soli: uno per il vino (a calice) e un secondo per l’acqua (a tumbler). Il primo potrà essere cambiato man mano che si cambia il vino. In questo caso la sostituzione  del bicchiere va effettuata prima di togliere quello contenente il vino servito in precedenza, e così di seguito finché occorre.

Sulla tavola i bicchieri devono essere disposti secondo un’altezza decrescente da sinistra a destra: i bicchieri di vino bianco sono più piccoli di quelli per il vino rosso. Il bicchiere dell’acqua è disposto a sinistra.“

Raccomandazioni: chi ama il vino deve apprezzare tutte le sue qualità organolettiche. “La degustazione è un piacere che coinvolge tutti i sensi,  pertanto sono consigliati bicchieri di cristallo o di vetro non colorati né smerigliati, così da permettere di ammirare il colore del vino.  È possibile qualche concessione, sempre molto ponderata, alla decorazione e alla fantasia, in ossequio alla tradizione vetraria di molti paesi”.

E a casa, visto che uso spesso solo 2 bicchieri, mi sono chiesta quali utilizzare e come disporli. La mia preferenza va al calice trasparente per il vino – ne ho comprati da degustazione che vanno bene per quasi tutti i tipi – e a un bicchiere basso per l’acqua (Tumbler) che scelgo bianco, colorato o trasparente a seconda dell’allestimento della tavola. E il risultato è comunque d’effetto . Guardate un po’ qui:

villeroy-boch-artesano-kollektion_slide1_01

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Note e osservazioni

  1. AIS – Associazione Italiana Sommelier

 

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Patrizia Maritan

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